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oak tree; the harvesting of cork from the trees can begin when the
              tree is about 25 years old, and each tree can yield its bark every nine
              years. The trees can live to 300 years, as long as the stripping does not
              damage the internal parts – thus skilled workers are needed for this job.
              The trees have big numbers painted on them, to indicate the year when
              they have been harvested. Because it is elastic, impermeable and fire
              retardant, it has many uses besides that of a wine stopper: it is used as
              thermal insulation, in flooring, and as a fabric. We saw purses, wallets
              and even clothing made of cork in the shops.

                                                            A coat made of cork.

              Castelo de Vide was the easternmost locale we visited. It was built by
              the Romans and is considered the best preserved mediaeval town in
              Portugal. It was home to a sizeable Jewish community during the Middle
              Ages and one can still visit the oldest synagogue in Portugal.
              Our hotel in Évora was a former royal residence just outside the medieval
              walls of the town. It is a UNESCO heritage site, and at its centre is Praҫa
              do Geraldo, the main town square, with harmonious arcades around
              its perimeter. The Roman Temple of Diana sits on a high hill – 14 of its
              original 18 columns remain, and the skill of the Roman builders is evident.
              One macabre site we visited was the Chapel of Bones near the Church
              of Sāo Francisco. A small plaque warns visitors: “Our bones assembled
              here are waiting for yours”. Five thousand skeletons of monks are on
              display, and the interior walls are decorated and covered with skulls
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